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“The toothy mafaldine I had one night—made from local grains milled in-house and tangled up with morsels of grassy whey-braised Colorado lamb and tender little peas—was the single most exciting plate of pasta I ate this year. But did Whitaker really have to take the leftover bran from milling that flour and use it to ferment all sorts of electric, eyebrow-raising pickled vegetables? Again: I love those pickles. But you have to admit it’s a little…extra, right?”
DRY STORAGE READING LIST
“As I was leaving Kelly’s place, he mentioned that he was doing a grain dinner with four courses, each course high-lighting an heirloom grain variety that he raises on his farms… The idea is to show how different wheat varieties bring different flavors and textures, not only to the bread but also to every dish made with the freshly milled flour. Amen, Kelly.”